Saturday, November 28, 2009

weight reduction estimates

I couldn't make a table with columns using the blog text editor. So I took a picture of my laptop screen. (using apple key,shift,3)
I am estimating my final Vehicle weight to be under 2000 lbs. This is including batteries!

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Some of my posts are a little out of order.  Here's a few shots of the car with my first time, self done paint job.  It's not perfect but I needed to save money for batteries.  The roller is almost finished.
I am still messing around with the 12V system

Sean and I did a trial run on mating the transmission to the motor and installing the monster in the car.
Here the motor ring is attached to the motor.  The adaptor plate and Hub assembly are sitting on the cart.  Next the adaptor plate and hub are installed.  Getting the hub to rest in the correct spot so the flywheel spacing was correct was a challenge.  Next installed the throw out bearing and shift fork with new plastic bushings to the tranny.  Here flywheel clutch and pressure plate are mounted to the motor. Finally, we mated the motor with flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate to the transmission.

Unfortunately the motor mount (which was for an Advanced DC 9" motor) did not work for the AC motor I am using from High Performance Golf cars.  The bolt holes did not line up.
It was a trial run but I was a little disappointed.

Lightened flywheel

Finally got the lightened flywheel (less starter gears) back from the machine shop.
Electro Automotive talks about a magic number when installing the flywheel. This is the distance from the adaptor plate to the front of the Flywheel (see black & white picture). When you machine off the starter gear teeth and lighten the flywheel this number of course changes. Duh.
Luckily I still had a stock flywheel to compare my lightened one to. Just adjust for the difference in thickness.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Engine lid quick disconnect

I got this idea from Sean Molloy a local San Diego Porsche mechanic and racer.
Create a slot where the oval hole on the engine lid hinge is. (See pic.)
This allows you to remove the engine lid quickly.
I'd rather store the lid on the car than take up more space in my garage.

Get longer bolts for the brackets on the firewall that attach to the engine lid hinges. Attach the bolt in the reverse direction. Use a washer and a wing nut to attach the hinge to the bracket. (See pic.) Now you can insert and remove the engine lid relatively quickly.